Last week, the inaugural Textiles Recycling Expo took place in Brussels and for a first edition, it left a strong impression. Over 3,000 visitors and more than 100 exhibitors gathered under one roof to talk not about abstract visions, but about concrete actions and technical realities shaping the future of circular textiles.
What made this event stand out wasn’t the impressive tech demos or keynote soundbites, but the rare sense that, for once, everyone who mattered was in the room. From sorters and recyclers to policymakers and tech developers. Notably absent, though, were many brands, a gap that was noted and discussed often.
One message echoed clearly: the technology exists. We have sorting systems, mechanical and chemical recycling solutions, design-for-recycling guidelines. In some cases, we even have operational capacity. But we lack two things: a viable business case and policy frameworks that encourage demand and investment.
Smart policy, not just more rules
Karla Basselier, CEO of Fedustria, the Belgian federation of Textiles and Wood, put it succinctly: “We don’t just need more legislation, we need smart legislation. Not more obligations, but frameworks that enable real markets for recycled textiles.”
But legislation alone won’t solve it. There is an urgent call to harmonise regulatory frameworks on a global level. While Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is seen as a necessary driver to secure funding, incentivise ecodesign and stimulate investment in sorting and recycling infrastructure. Clarity and consistency will be key in building the trust and scale needed for circular business models.
What’s needed now is alignment, between investors, brands, recyclers, policymakers and infrastructure providers. And that means asking tough questions:
- How do we finance large-scale circular solutions?
- What role should eco-modulation fees play?
- Are mandatory recycled content targets the push the market needs?
A striking observation, both during panel discussions and in informal conversations with exhibitors and visitors, was that the current focus still centres on post-industrial textile waste. Despite the abundance of feedstock, visualised by confronting images of textile waste piling up on beaches in Ghana and Chile, efforts to integrate post-consumer textiles into recycling systems are still limited.
From prototypes to scale
Despite the upbeat atmosphere, there was also a clear sense of realism. The circular transition isn’t going to happen overnight. Most textile-to-textile recycling is still in pilot phase. Sorting innovations are advancing fast but scaling infrastructure is lagging behind. And without real market demand for recycled content, the loop remains open.
There were also positive signals. The launch of RE-APS, a Belgian-French cross-border project to scale up polyester recycling, shows what’s possible through international collaboration. And projects like T-REX illustrate how voluntary initiatives, when backed by investment and long-term commitment!, can deliver impact.
Still, the big question remains: who is buying recycled materials? Without consistent orders, even the most advanced recycling line can’t survive. One panellist challenged the brands directly: “Launch a capsule collection using recycled cotton. Don’t wait for perfect, just start, learn, and keep going.”
No champagne (yet)
Yes, there’s momentum. Yes, the circular textile sector is maturing. But we’re not there yet. There’s still uncertainty around profitability, standardisation, and responsibilities. Especially when it comes to low-quality products that are hard to reuse or recycle. And still too often, the burden of dealing with waste falls on sorters and recyclers, not on those producing it.
One thing’s clear: this is an ecosystem play. It can’t work if only one part of the chain is doing the heavy lifting.
As someone said during a panel: “It’s like bringing water to the sea some days. But I’d still rather be part of the solution.”
Written from the floor of the 2025 Textiles Recycling Expo, by the Ellie team.